Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children do not want to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
